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Damask  Brought to Damascus by Marco Polo in the 13th Century.  A jacquard woven fabric with floral or geometric patterns created with different weave effects.  Can be woven self-tone; one color warp; different color filling.  Distinguished from brocade because face of fabric is flatter.

Decorative Fabric Wholesaler  A firm that creates, styles and colors decorative fabrics and provides service for merchandise sold at wholesale to interior designers, architects, furniture manufacturers, furniture re-upholsterers.

Direct Print  Pattern and ground color printed on fabric in the colors desired, as opposed to extract printing done on a dyed cloth.  Cretonne is an example of a direct print.

Dobby  Fabric with geometric figures woven in set pattern.  Similar to, but more limited, more quickly woven, and cheaper than jacquards, which require elaborate procedures to form patterns.

Dobby Loom  A type of  loom on which small, geometric figures can be woven in as a regular pattern.  Originally this type of  loom needed a "dobby boy" who sat on top of the loom and drew up warp threads to form a pattern.  Now the weaving is done entirely by machine.  This loom differs from a plain loom in that it may have up to thirty-two harnesses and a pattern chain and it is expensive weaving.

Douppioni  Also spelled doupioni, doppione, douppione and referred to as doupioon silk.  An irregular rough silk reeled from double cocoons that have grown together, resulting in a slubby, interrupted texture.  Irregularity in sheerness or weight, referred  to as cross bands or shadings, is common.  Black specks sometimes appearing in douppioni  silk fabrics are part of the original cocoon  and cannot be removed without weakening the fiber.  Their inherent properties are not to be considered flaws or defects in fabric.

Dyeing of Textiles  The coloring of greige goods of fibers with either natural or synthetic dyes.  This may be done in many different ways depending on the type of fabric (or fiber), the type of dye and the desired result.  Some of  the more common  methods are: 

a. Continuous Dyeing  - Fabric is continuously dyed.  Dye lots may run to 30,000 yards/color.

b. Jet Dyeing - Used for dyeing Polyester.  Pressure kettles which take dyes up to extremely high temperature and force dye into the fiber.

c.  Millitron Dyeing - Developed by Milliken & Company for continuous pattern dyeing.

d. Piece Dyeing - Fabric is passed through the dye solution  for a specified length of time.

e.  Printing - A term referring to methods of applying designs to greige goods.  Some types of printing are roller printing, screen printing, and handblocked printing.

f. Solution Dyeing - A solution of dye is added to the liquid synthetic before spinning it into a yarn.

g.  Vat Dyeing - An insoluble dye that has been made soluble is put on the fiber and then oxidized to the original insoluble form.  Average dye lot 700 yards.

h.  Yarn Dyeing - Yarn is dyed before it is woven into fabric.